Loire Bike Trip: May 8th (Ok, so I’m well over a month late posting this and I’ve been on two trips since then. But I’ve been scanning photos so I thought I’d blog more about France.)
May 8th is Armistice Day in France. It is also the last day of the Fete de Jeanne D’Arc. Orleans celebrates by have two or three great big marches in the morning, the last of which actually goes until the late afternoon.

The first march of the morning involves people representing all the different regions of France dressed up in their traditional clothes. It was one of my favorite things from last year. You have no idea how goofy an outfit can get until you see someone walking around with a highly starched piece of white lace sticking up from their head like a grandmotherly rocket about to take off. Also, you’d be surprised as to how many of these regions claim great big wooden clogs as their traditional footwear. The Dutch are known for these things, but that’s just because they’ve been out of style in France for a while.
That parade goes to the cathedral and then back down to the Place de Jeanne d’Arc where they all get together for a dance off.
For reals, yo.
A.Dance.Off.
All the groups gather around the big Jeanne D’Arc statue and take turns doing various folk dances. I have two favorites. One is the group from Antilles, who: 1) tend to be the only black people in the parade 2) are wearing reasonable outfits involving Hawaiian shirts and light pants and 3) have their own drummers. The other favorite is a group that includes people wearing sheep hides on stilts. I have no idea where they’re from but wherever it is it is awesome. Dancing on stilts! Wearing what appear to be slightly tailored flokati rugs as ponchos! Awesome! 
We watched the dancers for a while and then decided to go find a good spot to sit and wait for the next parade to go by. The second parade that day involved a whole lot of military equipment and marching bands. The Army rolls by in tanks, the police file through. Firefighters roll by in their shiny engines, receiving the only applause in the whole parade. No one likes Gendarmes, I guess.
The first two parades of the morning head down the main drag in Orleans and end at the cathedral. The third and final parade of the day leaves from the cathedral and heads in the opposite direction as the first two parades. I think the parade route is much longer, crossing the river and going to the edge of town before coming back. It’s also the most local of the three parades, starting with a religious procession that includes the girl standing in for Jeanne d’Arc, and bunch of religious officials and slowly devolving into scout troops, the local gymnasts, the high school marching band, and any other notable town clubs. It’s cute watching them all go by and sort of funny watching them all come back, looking exhausted and a bit cranky a few hours later when the parade finally ends. 
After seeing everybody march out, we got some coffee at a nearby cafe and got lunch at the medieval market. I can’t remember what all else we did that day. I think it must have just been hanging out and eating. The lines for food were a bit out of control so I know that took a good long while. I do have to say that the crepes made with ostrich eggs were rather tasty. I do remember that Xena was crazy nervous the whole day. I think she was worried about more canon fire. Poor think is going to have a complex about Ren Fairs for a while, I think.
At some post we walked over to the town hall to watch the end of the parade. By this point it had started raining. A small crowd of people gathered under the dry spot in front of the tourist office and waited for the procession to come by. At the end of the parade, they pass by the church and then go to the town hall where a bunch more ceremony happens. It must be a grueling day for the people involved in all this, what with the walking for ever and the speechifying and the praying and whatnot. The girl playing Jeanne d’Arc looked exhausted as she smiled and waved on her last lap around.
The thing about traditional festivals like the Fete de Jeanne d’Arc is that not a whole lot changes form year to year. Some years there are more people than others or maybe something is tweaked a little here or there. But the core of what actually happens stays the same and the details tend to change gradually over time instead of being really different every year. I mention this because this was the second year in a row that we’ve attended this particular festival and well, it was pretty much the same as last year. As such, I didn’t take that many photos of the parades. I’ve got a couple of rolls worth form 2006 that I’m going to scan eventually (maybe in time for the 2009 festival?) but for now you’ll just have to make due with what I’ve got posted up at flickr.
.Loire Valley Bike Trip Photos.